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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.